Doesn’t this sound like a great brunch? Golden yellow slow-scrambled eggs, cream cheese folded in, and sweet shreds of lobster meat, heaped on a thick, crusty slice of rustic bread, charred on the grill and drizzled with truffle oil? But this, in fact, is dinner—an appetizer, actually, at Bar La Grassa in Minneapolis’s North Loop.
More and more, eggs take a starring role after 11 a.m. Everyone thinks they can scramble eggs, but few can scramble like La Grassa. The best chefs use the humble egg to show off technique. Or just show off.
At Haute Dish (also in the North Loop), chef Landon Schoenefeld is definitely showing off with his steak and eggs. This cheeky take on breakfast is a lot of fun for dinner. A spicy ring of steak tartare takes center stage, but what makes the dish is the egg: a toad-in-a-hole from childhood breakfasts. When an egg is cooked until the yolk is just set and the white is silky soft, you can almost call it haute. Especially if you chase it down with Schoenefeld’s bloody mary oyster shooter.
Brasa, in Minneapolis and St. Paul, is known for its slow-roasted meats with a Latino touch. But it also offers a spicy take on breakfast in a bun. Soft scrambled eggs cloak juicy sausage with a serious kick, just as rich and satisfying as the joint’s legendary pulled pork.
Expect to see more eggy entrÃ©es on area menus this year. Wise Acre Eatery serves an ever-changing vegetable hash that has won many lunch fans. Lucia’s Wine Bar, where the menu changes weekly, has been known to celebrate eggs as well.
Now that sourcing high-quality ingredients has become more of a given than a claim to fame, chefs are eager to highlight technique. And there’s no better way to do that than to start with an egg.