Twenty years ago Tracy Singleton opened Birchwood Café in Minneapolis. Before food was a movement. Before issues of labor ethics and sustainability dominated discussions of what to eat. Before family farms supplied most local restaurants. But those topics were relevant at Birchwood even back then. In the last decade Singleton took on a business partner, hired a chef and ran a Kickstarter campaign to finance a renovation and expansion. Today Birchwood is a Seward neighborhood icon. She has eschewed the growth ambitions of many of her peers, choosing to stay focused on the community of purveyors and customers who made Birchwood what it is.