Where:
2450 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612-870-8000

When:
M–Th, 11 a.m.–10 p.m., F, 11 a.m.–Midnight, Sa, 10 a.m.–10 p.m., Su, 10 a.m.–Midnight

Price:
Dinner Entrées, $10–80

On February 7, the Chinese community—and a few others of us—will be celebrating the start of the year 4706 on the Asian lunar calendar, the “year of the rat.” If the designation sounds less than appealing, consider that the celebration of Chinese New Year can go on for weeks, and it traditionally kicks off with a sumptuous banquet. These dinners, often of a dozen courses or more, are served not just in homes, but also in restaurants.

The dishes served are filled with symbolism. For example, crescent-shaped potstickers are said to resemble ancient Chinese money and represent wealth and prosperity, and noodles, which are never to be cut, stand for longevity. The dinners I have enjoyed over the years included multiple appetizers and everything from crab, lobster, or whole fish to the traditional vegetarian rice dish known as Buddha’s Delight.

Peking duck








     Peking duck

But perhaps my favorite dish in this or any Chinese meal is a classic Peking duck, which is traditionally a multicourse sequence itself: first, a platter of crisp, crackling skin, then a preparation of boneless meat, and finally a soup simmered from the leftover bones. One of the best versions of this treat I’ve sampled locally has been at Relax Restaurant on Eat Street.

The former Yummy is under new ownership, and I’ve been delighted by much of the food I’ve sampled there—including the two-course (skin and meat), $17.95, no-need-to-order-ahead Peking duck entrée. Indeed, there have been so many great dishes—the pea tips with garlic, braised bean curd and grouper hot pot, clams in black bean sauce—that I’ve decided Relax is where I’ll be ringing in 4706. Gung hay fat choy

 

Get Your Peking Ducks in a Row • Ping’s (1401 Nicollet Ave. S., Minneapolis, 612-874-9404) The Peking duck for two is the signature dish. For $31, you get a whole duck and fried rice.

• Shuang Cheng (1320 Fourth St. SE, Minneapolis, 612-378-0208) This Dinkytown hole in the wall has long been a favorite of local food critics. I’ve never sampled the Peking duck served here, but it’s reputed to be excellent. 

• Mandarin Kitchen (8766 Lyndale Ave. S, Bloomington, 952-884-5356) Recently remodeled and home to some of the best and freshest Chinese cuisine around, this is another very worthy destination for a reliably prepared duck dinner.


At-Home Tips:

1) To enjoy the crispy-skin course of Peking duck, simply slather the wonderful steamed buns with a bit of the accompanying hoi-sin sauce, add the julienned cucumber or scallion, and then a morsel or two of the crisp-fried skin. You can specify how you’d like the meat course stir-fried. The default is with onion and red and green pepper.

2) The beef ribs with black pepper sauce are prepared with a combination of black pepper, bell pepper, and onion. These beauties deliver a pleasant kick and lots of flavor.